When I came to Porto back in 1996, the city was gray due to its granite constructions and, I must confess, a little depressing. People from Lisbon described it as a gloomy, foggy city with no light whatsoever. That has changed and, among the many improvements I’ve witnessed, street art has played a major role in transforming Porto, infusing it with color, vibrancy, and youthful energy — now admired by visitors from all over the world.
Continue reading for a deep dive into its history, or join our Private Custom Tour of Porto for an up-close experience of Porto’s incredible street art scene.
The 90s in Porto
The only graffiti I can recall from the 1990s was the white circled “A”, the Anarchy symbol, drawn here and there by punks, which doesn’t really count as street art or graffiti, for that matter.
Graffiti is usually an egotistical form of expression, with its primary objective being to gain recognition quickly and from as many people as possible. This is why painting trains is so popular among writers; trains cover large distances, helping graffiti artists gain fame beyond their neighborhood. Additionally, graffiti follows a kind of code that can only be appreciated by other writers, excluding the rest of society, which makes this form of art less socially accepted.
Street Art in Porto
Street artists, on the other hand, create their work to leave an impression on society’s sensibilities, with themes that people widely accept and appreciate. It is a more altruistic art form, always carrying a message that seeks to influence the community around the mural, collage, stencil, tiles, photography, stickers — whatever the medium may be.
As the city evolved, especially after Porto was named the European Capital of Culture in 2001, it opened itself more to external influences, revealing a cosmopolitan side that had long remained dormant. Soon, artists began timidly expressing themselves on the streets: first with throw-ups and hall of fame pieces and, later, as the hip-hop scene grew rapidly, with more elaborate works that transitioned from hidden spaces to public view. But what truly propelled Porto’s street art scene was something entirely different.
Graffiti Wars in Porto
Rui Rio served as Porto’s mayor from 2001 to 2013 and gained a reputation for economic efficiency and a complete disregard for the arts. Looking back, citizens recall that, during this period, private entities largely created and produced culture in the city, while the municipality treated it as a luxury the public coffers couldn’t afford. Meanwhile, thousands of euros were being spent on the Boavista race circuit, the mayor’s personal pipe dream.
In line with this approach, and driven by complaints from some citizens, Rio’s administration created the Anti-Graffiti Squad to wipe clean all walls, regardless of whether the artwork was socially accepted or not.
There are many powerful catalysts, and the most flammable one is repression.
The Anti-Graffiti Squad
In 2013, the Anti-Graffiti Squad covered one of Hazul’s murals in the city center. Soon after, photos spread across the internet at viral speed, sparking outrage. People compared the act to book burning, saw it as an attack on freedom of speech, and viewed it as yet another blow to artistic expression in Porto.
In protest, critics “vandalized” Rui Rio’s Wikipedia profile with sarcastic remarks, implying that his actions stemmed from his past as the CEO of one of Portugal’s largest paint companies.
Suddenly, out of nowhere, the once-quiet city’s writers began sabotaging the Anti-Graffiti Squad — with paint. During the day, the squad covered murals with white or yellow paint and, in the evening, artists returned to the same spots, painting a straight black line along the length of the wall and writing a single sentence in Portuguese: Continua a pintar (keep painting). This simple yet effective protest was cheap for the artists but extremely costly for the municipality, which spent 150,000 euros on the campaign —yielding immediate results but significant losses over time.
Hazul: the Portuguese Banksy
Soon, Hazul became a martyr. Officials spared his pieces from the cover-up rampage and immediately compared him to Banksy —not only because they gave him VIP treatment but also due to the secrecy surrounding his identity.
People, including street artists, saw this as unfair to other artists, and a buzz began to grow, creating momentum for change. City Hall acknowledged that some murals were indeed art while others were not, leading them to introduce a licensing system for street artists. Anyone could apply by paying a fee, but they had to submit a project and specify where they intended to create their work.
At the same time, Portugal enacted its first street art law, imposing heavy fines on transgressors. In an attempt to define what counted as art, City Hall hired a street artist to recreate old images of Porto on selected walls — subtly implying that the city was static and orderly. But you can’t regulate something that has ‘illegal’ as its middle name.
A new approach for Street Art
In October 2013, voters elected Rui Moreira as Mayor of Porto. An independent candidate and entrepreneur from one of Porto’s finest families, he had a deep passion for his city and approached his new role as he had always done in business. Rather than acting like a traditional mayor, he took on the role of a CEO, surrounding himself with the best people and quickly gaining the support of his former election rivals.
His primary goal was to restore Porto’s glory and the straightforwardness that had defined its spirit for centuries. One of the first individuals he brought on board was his friend Paulo Cunha e Silva — a humanist, intellectual, and fellow Porto enthusiast. His vision was to transform Porto into a ‘liquid city […] where everything can happen everywhere,’ with street art as one of the key elements of this transformation. He imagined different art forms intertwined in a large street festival, including all artists and citizens, providing today’s generations with food for thought so they could build a better future. Sadly, he passed away in November 2015, but his legacy lives on.
The first legal Mural in Porto
In April 2014, officials inaugurated Porto’s first legal mural at the corner of Rua Miguel Bombarda and Rua Diogo Brandão, one of the gateways to Bairro das Artes, the city’s art gallery district. The 130-square-meter depiction of Don Quixote and his sidekick Sancho Panza symbolizes the many ‘windmills’ that street art had to overcome up until that moment.
It took Circus Network, through the hands of local artists Fedor, Mesk, and Mots, a long time to complete. Today, it stands as proof that legal murals are the way forward in a city that continues to evolve every day.
This mural was part of a project called Ru+A, created by Imagin’o Porto in collaboration with Réplica and Circus Network. The initiative also brought murals to Rua de Cedofeita, one of the city’s main shopping streets, transforming storefronts into an open-air gallery called Urban Frames.
Following this, City Hall commissioned several street art interventions, including artwork on the phone booths of Avenida dos Aliados, a dedicated street art exhibit at Edifício Axa, and a large-scale mural by Hazul and Mr. Dheo in a city-owned parking lot near Trindade Metro Station.
In a joint venture between City Hall and the national electricity company, local street artists also decorated all the electricity boxes along Rua das Flores. A second intervention on Rua de Cedofeita is already in the works as I write these words.
Also, close to Palácio de Cristal, one of the city’s parks dating back to the late 19th century, artists repaint a large wall on Rua da Restauração every six months, providing an opportunity for emerging street artists.
But What About the Artists?
Porto is home to many street artists, but we can only name a few that you can easily spot around the city.
- Hazul remains one of the most prolific artists in town, using blocked windows and door frames as canvases for his pieces, which appear everywhere.
- Costah is another well-known artist, primarily working with collages to create colorful and humorous compositions, often depicting birds or characters with long arms and legs.
- Chei Krew is behind the charming giraffes scattered throughout the city.
- #PreencherEspaçosVazios and Sem take a different approach by using tiles in their interventions.
And what about female street artists?
Lara Luís and Eleonor are names to remember. Both come from an illustration background and have transitioned into street art, bringing even more color to Porto’s streets. International artists also leave their mark when passing through, such as Selor, who remains somewhat active in the city center.
Street Art in Porto Today
Street art is constantly evolving — it’s in its nature. It isn’t meant to last for centuries; sometimes, pieces exist for only a few days before being destroyed or replaced.
Porto now faces new challenges. Some walls are still being painted over by City Hall crews in an effort to maintain order. However, there’s no official jury deciding what stays and what goes — just a municipal worker who spares what he finds appealing. There’s something both romantic and ironic about that.
Currently, artists can submit a project, and if approved, they receive a free license — an initiative designed to brighten up the streets. City Hall also commissions street art projects, offering financial incentives starting at €300. On the other hand, some aspiring street artists attempt to gain quick fame by emulating Hazul’s “martyrdom”. Some place their pieces in strategic locations, and when authorities remove them, they launch Facebook campaigns, exploiting public sentiment to spread the idea of “injustice” and gain recognition quickly. The street art community considers this practice dishonest and frowns upon it.
While in Porto, keep your eyes and mind open. Observe how street art interacts with the city’s cobblestone streets, making the urban landscape richer for everyone, regardless of age. Notice the pride locals take in having street art right next to their homes and the smiles on their faces when someone stops to take a picture. For many Porto residents, street art is also part of their cultural heritage.
Street Art Shops
Dedicated Store
Rua de Cedofeita n.° 654
In a field still predominantly male, women manage the only store in Porto where street artists can buy their supplies. Dedicated Store not only sells materials but also promotes artists and organizes activities that enrich the street art scene. If you’re interested in learning more, just drop by and ask away.
Circus Network
Rua do Rosário 54
Porto is a small city, but it’s full of creative minds working to improve society while making a living through art. Circus Network is the city’s first art gallery dedicated to street art. It features resident artists, commissions original works, and serves as a hub for anyone interested in Porto’s street art scene. Owned and managed by André and Ana — who holds a master’s degree in street art and has extensive knowledge of the field—Circus Network is more than just an art gallery. It also functions as a co-working space and a great place to visit. They were the driving force behind Porto’s first legal mural.
Glossary
- Writer – A graffiti artist (avoid using “graffiti artist” or “graffiter”)
- Hall of Fame – A synonym for “masterpiece” or “piece” in graffiti culture
- Throw-ups – Quickly painted graffiti works
- Tag – A writer’s signature
- Crew – A group of graffiti writers who work together
- Piece – A large, detailed composition that takes time to create
Ricardo Brochado, founder of City Tailors, beautifully captures the essence of street art in Porto in this blog post, now featured on the Taste Porto blog as part of the fusion between City Tailors and Taste Porto.
